BINSAR - MUNSIYARI - PATAL BHUBNESHWAR - NAINITAL, UTTARAKHAND, INDIA

Five-Days Travel

(Delhi - Binsar - Munsiyari - Patal Bhubneshwar - Nainital - Delhi)

28th April 2016

Leaving home at 7:00 am from Faridabad and 2 stops for food and tea, we followed the Delhi - Moradabad - Kathgodam - Bhimtal - Almora - Binsar route. It was already 6:30 pm and 30 km to Binsar! The forest department, as we were aware, was strict about the timings and the entry gates would close by 7pm. Our bookings being in the Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) Tourist Rest House (TRH), Binsar we were too scared.

Well, you are supposed to reach sooner this way, if your driver isn't a slow driver. The case for us was a bit unfavourable because of the luxury 9-seater tempo traveller we picked, mighty Himalayas, kicked out all the luxury out of it.

Our ride for the tour

The roads were though, almost, neat and clean.

Initially I was really disheartened of the scorching heat on seeing lands full of leafless dried out trunks and no lush greens, that invaded my dreams since a tour to the Himalayas was in plan. But but, turning point comes as soon as you switch roads on to the hill that takes you uphill to Almora. 

Sights changing...

Sights changing 'Dramatically'

Or maybe it was just the sun bidding goodbye for the day that made everything so better :p

Sun setting while we're about to reach Almora

Coming back on track, we stood at the Binsar wildlife sanctuary gate at 7:30 pm. Explaining and understanding happened. And upon paying the dues...

Entry fee into the Binsar wildlife sanctuary, valid for multiple crossing until 3 days

The incharge let us in with a note that we had prior bookings in the KMVN TRH and this concession was just one time. It took us another 1 hour to cover the really narrow and uphill 10 kms inside the sanctuary to reach our destination. It was already past 8:30 and dinner there is always up until 9, hence, we were quick. (Thats the only source of food inside the sanctuary, FYI)

29th April 2016

I never expected a wow-some architecture for our stay but this one is still a pretty experience being away from all the noise and everything so-city-life, including television, geysers and anything that works on electricity... yes! light too. The rooms are nice and clean, the staff decent and friendly, comfortable bedding, clean restrooms and good food. The room flooring, ceiling and walls being wooden; cold doesn't bother much while you're inside, but the noise(if any) from the other rooms will.

The only other thing I'd note here, good or bad, to keep in mind is that electricity is provided only 7-9 pm (also the dinner time), and all the phone/camera, etc. charging stuff can be done within that only. 

BTW, the cellular networks vary a lot inside the sanctuary, for obvious reasons.

Also, you'll find only one power plug in 1 room.

Candles + matches and permanent + temporary candle stands are provided in each room for all other times in the day. Used mostly just to wind up in the night or if you rise up early, else there is broad daylight filling all the rooms though unveiled curtains.

Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) Tourist Rest House (TRH)  (Front)

Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) Tourist Rest House (TRH) (Back)

Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) Tourist Rest House (TRH) (Dining Area)

Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) Tourist Rest House (TRH) (Corridor)

The only thing definitely BAD for us was that when we reached, forest fires were on rage for last 1 week and nothing scenic could be seen since. Also, we were highly recommended not to walk in the jungles alone due to the same, wildfires can't be predicted reasons.

Hey, I sighted a gharud (barking deer) looking for grass to eat nearby, from the rest house terrace, sometime in the morning.

Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) Tourist Rest House (TRH) (Common Terrace)

Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) Tourist Rest House (TRH) Binsar's common terrace is the best place to encounter sunrise. We were unfortunate for there was so much smoke in the air that even the sun came into visibility after 45-60 min of being risen.

Nothing but smoke to see in any possible direction!

After having breakfast with all the time in the world, we decided to walk to the zero point. Zero point in Binsar is a place from where you sight a panoramic view of a 300 km stretch of the Himalayan Ranges, all the way from Dev bhoomi Uttarakhand to Nepal. You have to walk up on foot or you can rent mountain bikes (per day basis) from the rest house itself.

Behind the board is the way to the Zero Point

Took us just 9:30 - 11am to walk this very basic and just a little steep trek of 2-3 km.

Wide plain trail through the jungle, leading to the Zero Point

A proper stone shed is constructed on the point to get the view.

Stone shed- climb up to point your eyes to heaven

Smoke!

No peaks were seen due to the smoke, as we were well aware of already. But the walk itself could be an overall good experience for you if you time your visit right. We got to see black burnt lands all arounds. *facepalms*

Burnt lands due to the Uttarakhand forest fires

Nothing but disheartening!

While walking you'll find some Y-diversions which are supposed to confuse you, specifically if you're not accompanying a guide. Both the tracks will lead you to the zero point, the only condition being that one is the main wide track you're meant to go on and the other one is a shortcut trail (which might get a bit tricky at certain points).

Which way to choose?

We came back in an hours time. Now we knew that through any trail, we'd get to the same way out and its a down slope mostly so we were speedy :p

Having lunch at 1:30 (they'd generally ask you at breakfast itself that you'd be wanting lunch or not), left to hangout by 2:30. Visited Golu Devta Temple which lies within a 10 minute drive from the sanctuary gates.

Entrance to the Golu Devta Temple

A small walk up to the main temple premises

Entrance of the temple

Believers tie a chunni (decorated red cloth piece) and bells asking for their wishes.

countless number of bells and chins tied all over the temple premises 

There's also a section where people tie, along with the chunnis, their desires written on a piece of paper. And it is believed that if the wish comes true, you go back with faith and untie the chunni.

Written desires tied along with their chunnis by believers

Sighted 2 things unusual to see in general for the day-

A bald eagle catching its prey just 2 meters away from us !!

And secondly, there were cones set up to collect something called gond used for varnish in furniture making, from trees i heard people calling 'cheed ke ped'. 

Collection of Natural Gum

This is how it actually looks!

But I can give you information enough to reach the accurate name maybe. Those trees are also the ones we get these from.

Pine fruit

But we did not find a roadside pahado pe beth ke chai (a tea on the hills), that we went out looking for. And i think its kinda good because more the facilities given to men, more those very men ruin the place they get it from.

So another really interesting thing happened the same day. After having evening snacks, I and the other 3 girls went for a walk outside the rest house. As its inside the wildlife sanctuary, we were basically walking in the jungle at sometime around 7 pm informing none as to where we were headed.

Note: Don't do that, it's really risky!

Evening walk of our lives XD

We were scared but then we had this adrenalin rushing inside us and we kept walking. We suddenly looked into the woods and saw a bear shaped black trunk, sitting with its back towards us. We looked carefully for long enough secretly hoping that it moves. Then my wicked mind ticked and I took a picture of it. We roamed around some more and went back to our family in the rest house.

Spot the bear! :p

We showed them the picture and just said that we didn't know what it was but as soon as it moved, our feet involuntarily ran back. We walked a lot and the roads are steep, so we were huffing a bit and they believed us on it. On seeing the picture everyone got so amazed and concluded, yes, we did see a bear XD

They even made me show the picture to the rest house people as to know what they think about it, they too believed it! Now it was too late to unfold the truth and we decided we'll take it to our deathbeds. XP

But my father is bit of a trekker and went alone to the road we told them we took, next morning, looking all around. He saw the trunk and revealed to us later in noon, " your bear is still sitting the same way since yesterday." *speechless*

Well, point to be noted, the rest house staff said that they never did really sight a bear anywhere near the rest house but leopard sightings do happen and its not safe to walk like that towards late evenings.

They also said they saw a leopard around just 1.5 months back from the day.

The day ended with pretty giggles and all.

30th April 2016

Next day we headed to Munsiyari. Must say, the roads are well maintained, no rough patch. BUT they are really really curvy and not really wide. 

So #1 is you always take an experienced driver along. 

And #2, be pre medicated on any road trip if you tend to get sick.

Conditions were still the same, forest fires were on and smoke filled the entire sky. We got to know that there were forest fires in 900+ different places all over Uttarakhand. The case was worst 3 times more than last 3 years combined.

Smoke rising from the forest fires, filling the skies

The region still, never does really lose its beauty & we won't drop plans due to it.

This is when there is smoke, think how would it be when skies are clear! <3

The first town you see moving from Binsar to Munsiyari is Bageshwar, also moving along river Gomti for a few hundred meters.

Next comes Kanda, which is 'you can see all of it on lefts and rights while riding' small place. Moving the same route, Binsar to Munsiyari will cost you 8-10 hrs drive, which is about how much it took you from Delhi to Binsar, but here you cover just 150 km in as much. Because baby you don't play with the Himalayas. There lie areas that are prone to landslides and some where speed limit is just 25!

Your route to Munsiyari

We left KMVN TRH Binsar at 9am and stopped once for some tea and second for food at 3:30 pm, from where Munsiyari was 48 km away. We covered this distance reasonably quick. Now see why you'll be willing to pay the costs. In seasons, you find snow... lots of snow.

Despite the unseasonably hot summer, this place is heavenly pleasant. To reach here, you'll get a road trip full of mind boggling beauty.

Again, this is when there's nothing but smoke

A DSLR will come into your bucket list as soon you see and try to capture the insane beauty of the surroundings. In not a single case, will you regret planning this road trip.

Please don't bother taking out your camera, you'd regret moving your eyes away and also how less you can capture of what you see. Any words are less words. It will make you feel so small! Once in a lifetime must to see beauty. 

One fact you should know- we had prior bookings, but there's no other single room vacant in Munsiyari until June!

A waterfall

A waterfall lie in the way about 30 km before Munsiyari.

KMVN TRH Birthi

KMVN TRH Birthi

Park your vehicle near the KMVN TRH Birthi and walk a steep trek up to the waterfall, its worth every single step when you feel the air and mist on your face standing right beneath the fall.

Trek up to the waterfall

Standing beneath the waterfall

Aaah...!! the fresh misty air...

On the way you'll see hundreds of butterflies fluttering around so dreamy and as many butterfly wings lying below your feet. A lil dash of sad, but that's nature and its amazing the way it is.

Butterfly wings

I could see just one fall but signs on stones said that go near rainy seasons and you'll drive over one in about every 200 meters. The scenes get chiller, greener, and ever more beautiful as you drive ahead.

Sun had set and so i couldn't get pictures of what my eyes saw. Well, that i couldn't get in daylight too. :p

Finally we put steps in at KMVN TRH Munsiyari at 7:30 pm. This one had electricity, television and all things we city people are so habitual to.

1st May 2016

Moving towards Patal Bhubneshwar from Munsiyari

Left the rest house at 9:30 am past breakfast, for Patal Bhubneshwar. The roads for a few km patch were still in progress and ride wasn't smooth on this track. 

Road maintenance!

Kacchi Sadak!

But then a good road for the last 8km. And then you reach the place that EVEN IF I KNEW I'D DIE INSIDE, I'D STILL GO!! If you're reading this, DO nothing but visit Patal Bhubneshwar (the cave temple) once in your life! Cameras aren't allowed inside, though there's a documentary done by Nat Geo of this place. Also you may find pictures on google.

This is just the entrance!

Its called Patal Bhuvneshwar for a reason. It's steep and deep beneath the Earth! And there are seven such floors beneath. You just visit the top most because way to the other 6 is in there but hasn't seen any steps yet except those who discovered it. It leads to many other caves which are known to take you to various other important from religious point of view places in India. But due to unknown routes and no light and of course lack of oxygen, it is not man stepped.

Picture text:

"In Treta Yug, this cave was discovered by King Rituparna. Next it was discovered by the Pandavas in Dwapar Yug. And in Kalyug it was found by the world guru Shankaracharya in 822 AD. He was the one who informed certain kings about it and Pujaris were brought here to pray to the deities. In present, Bhandari family (18th generation) is taking care of the rituals, generation after generation."

We had a guide telling us everything because there weren't too many visitors in April. But the guide said, "By next month there will be such crowd that people will have to wait for hours to enter and for obvious reasons, we won't be able to give such detailed description and time to all of them." I won't go on here about what's inside, because it is something worth a self experience. *feeling content*

Next we went back to Almora to rest for the night. We had plans to stay the night in Nainital but we got late in the way and we were short of diesel.

Petrol/Diesel pumps (most of them) in Uttarakhand are open just 7am - 7pm. 

2nd May 2016

And next day, home sweet home. :)

To travel is the best way of knowledge.

- Wanderer at heart